How do I identify old Camero engine code number?

Post by j***@unlisted.com
I have an antique vehicle which had a Camero engine put into it. The
engine is from the early 1970s. It needs a carburetor, so I need to
identify what carb to get for it. There must be a number (code)
somewhere on the block. Where do I find this number, and how do I
interpret it to determine the year and engine size (cubic inches)?
Then, how do I determine what carb was originally used?
Thanks

I forgot to mention that the carburetor is missing, so I cant just get
the code number off the original carb.

Steve W.

2014-09-16 01:00:44 UTC

I forgot to mention that the carburetor is missing, so I cant just get
the code number off the original carb.

What type manifold? 2 or 4 barrel? Q-Jet or ???

If it's a Q-Jet you just need one to match the fuel inlet (front
entry/side entry) linkage type (automatic/Man trans) and choke type
(electronic, exhaust heated or remote coil) Size wise they are all the
same regardless of the engine size. That is one of the great things with
the Q-Jet. They are mostly self adjusting to match the airflow of the
engine.

--
Steve W.

j***@unlisted.com

2014-09-17 19:36:46 UTC

I forgot to mention that the carburetor is missing, so I cant just get
the code number off the original carb.

What type manifold? 2 or 4 barrel? Q-Jet or ???
If it's a Q-Jet you just need one to match the fuel inlet (front
entry/side entry) linkage type (automatic/Man trans) and choke type
(electronic, exhaust heated or remote coil) Size wise they are all the
same regardless of the engine size. That is one of the great things with
the Q-Jet. They are mostly self adjusting to match the airflow of the
engine.

Steve,

Thanks for your reply.
The manifold is a 2 BBL It has two holes approx. 1.25 inches per round
hole. The base of the carb is rectangular. Held down by 4 bolts
(studs). There is a mechanical choke operated by a heat coil on the
manifold. The tranny is a manual. That is about all I can tell you.
While some local people suggest getting an adaptor and using a 4 BBL
carb, I am NOT trying to achieve a high performance (POWER) engine. I
am more interested in fuel economy.

Part of the problem is that I dont know what Cubic inch this engine is.
It's either 305, 327, or 350 (small block). There is a code number on
the block, left side right below the left engine head, near the main
pully. The number is V02 70NE (space between numbers as written).

According to many websites I have visited, V = Flint Michigan 02 =
February. I assume the 70 means 1970 (which I am fairly sure is the
year). I can NOT find anything to address the "NE" at the end. I
assume that is the part that ID's the actual engine CU Inch and whatever
else is needed to properly ID this engine. I even inquired at a local
Chevy dealer, but they said they could not go back that far.

So you better understand what happened here. In the mid 1970's I bought
this engine from a salvage yard, and replaced the original V6 engine
which had a knock in it. The vehicle is a 64 GMC panel truck. This new
V* engine ran well. Around 1981, I had carb problems, removed the carb,
after parking the truck in a garage belonging to a relative. This carb
was put on a shelf in that garage, and I had a complete description of
the engine written on paper, on the wall. This garage developed a bad
roof leak, and since the relatives were sick, I finally re-roofed it
myself in the late 80's or early 90's. The relatives died some years
ago, and I had to assist with closing the estate. This propery was
recently sold, and I towed this vehicle home. The paper which hung on
the wall, to ID the engine was ruined from the leaking roof, and when I
moved the truck, the carb could not be found in that garage. Where it
went, I have no clue.

I'm only going on memory, that it was a 1970 Camero, but I can not
recall anything more about it. It's hard to remember back nearly 40
years. I am only remembering it as a 70 Camero eng, but that could be
wrong. I now want to restore the truck, the engine turns over, and the
rest of the truck is in intact, but will need brakes and some seals.
Otherwise it should run, once I get a carb to fit it.

I'm assuming you mean a Quadrajet when you say Q-jet.

It sure would help if I could ID that engine code.

Thanks

Steve W.

2014-09-17 22:41:16 UTC

I forgot to mention that the carburetor is missing, so I cant just get
the code number off the original carb.

What type manifold? 2 or 4 barrel? Q-Jet or ???
If it's a Q-Jet you just need one to match the fuel inlet (front
entry/side entry) linkage type (automatic/Man trans) and choke type
(electronic, exhaust heated or remote coil) Size wise they are all the
same regardless of the engine size. That is one of the great things with
the Q-Jet. They are mostly self adjusting to match the airflow of the
engine.

Steve,
Thanks for your reply.
The manifold is a 2 BBL It has two holes approx. 1.25 inches per round
hole. The base of the carb is rectangular. Held down by 4 bolts
(studs). There is a mechanical choke operated by a heat coil on the
manifold. The tranny is a manual. That is about all I can tell you.
While some local people suggest getting an adaptor and using a 4 BBL
carb, I am NOT trying to achieve a high performance (POWER) engine. I
am more interested in fuel economy.
Part of the problem is that I dont know what Cubic inch this engine is.
It's either 305, 327, or 350 (small block). There is a code number on
the block, left side right below the left engine head, near the main
pully. The number is V02 70NE (space between numbers as written).
According to many websites I have visited, V = Flint Michigan 02 =
February. I assume the 70 means 1970 (which I am fairly sure is the
year). I can NOT find anything to address the "NE" at the end. I
assume that is the part that ID's the actual engine CU Inch and whatever
else is needed to properly ID this engine. I even inquired at a local
Chevy dealer, but they said they could not go back that far.
So you better understand what happened here. In the mid 1970's I bought
this engine from a salvage yard, and replaced the original V6 engine
which had a knock in it. The vehicle is a 64 GMC panel truck. This new
V* engine ran well. Around 1981, I had carb problems, removed the carb,
after parking the truck in a garage belonging to a relative. This carb
was put on a shelf in that garage, and I had a complete description of
the engine written on paper, on the wall. This garage developed a bad
roof leak, and since the relatives were sick, I finally re-roofed it
myself in the late 80's or early 90's. The relatives died some years
ago, and I had to assist with closing the estate. This propery was
recently sold, and I towed this vehicle home. The paper which hung on
the wall, to ID the engine was ruined from the leaking roof, and when I
moved the truck, the carb could not be found in that garage. Where it
went, I have no clue.
I'm only going on memory, that it was a 1970 Camero, but I can not
recall anything more about it. It's hard to remember back nearly 40
years. I am only remembering it as a 70 Camero eng, but that could be
wrong. I now want to restore the truck, the engine turns over, and the
rest of the truck is in intact, but will need brakes and some seals.
Otherwise it should run, once I get a carb to fit it.
I'm assuming you mean a Quadrajet when you say Q-jet.
It sure would help if I could ID that engine code.
Thanks

You most likely have a
307 V-8, Bore 3.875 Stroke 3.25, 200HP @ 4600rpm,
300lbFt @ 2400 rpm, Comp. 9.0:1 2 barrel Carb.

Grab a Rochester 2GV 600cfm 2 barrel
For a Camaro, Nova, Chevelle, ElCamino or C-10/C-15 truck

"Correct" numbers:
Carb #7040110 without A/C, Man Trans.
Carb #7040103 WITH A/C, Man Trans.

Reasons being that the 327 wasn't made in 70.
The intake manifold bore is smaller than the 350 used (1.625")

You can make this engine MUCH better with one easy change. Grab an HEI
distributer from a 75-80's 350 BASE engine (not a high performance one
as the timing will be different, one from something like a Monte Carlo
or other grocery getter will work fine). The only changes required will
be to run a new wire from the HEI to the ignition switch. That is
because the points systems used a resistance wire to drop the voltage to
the points/coil in the run position. This was bypassed while cranking
the engine (It's what the ign. wire on the starter solenoid was for)
That change will make it start better, eliminate adjusting points and
the problems with them, and the timing will be much better.

--
Steve W.

j***@unlisted.com

2014-09-18 17:59:11 UTC

I forgot to mention that the carburetor is missing, so I cant just get
the code number off the original carb.

What type manifold? 2 or 4 barrel? Q-Jet or ???
If it's a Q-Jet you just need one to match the fuel inlet (front
entry/side entry) linkage type (automatic/Man trans) and choke type
(electronic, exhaust heated or remote coil) Size wise they are all the
same regardless of the engine size. That is one of the great things with
the Q-Jet. They are mostly self adjusting to match the airflow of the
engine.

Steve,
Thanks for your reply.
The manifold is a 2 BBL It has two holes approx. 1.25 inches per round
hole. The base of the carb is rectangular. Held down by 4 bolts
(studs). There is a mechanical choke operated by a heat coil on the
manifold. The tranny is a manual. That is about all I can tell you.
While some local people suggest getting an adaptor and using a 4 BBL
carb, I am NOT trying to achieve a high performance (POWER) engine. I
am more interested in fuel economy.
Part of the problem is that I dont know what Cubic inch this engine is.
It's either 305, 327, or 350 (small block). There is a code number on
the block, left side right below the left engine head, near the main
pully. The number is V02 70NE (space between numbers as written).
According to many websites I have visited, V = Flint Michigan 02 =
February. I assume the 70 means 1970 (which I am fairly sure is the
year). I can NOT find anything to address the "NE" at the end. I
assume that is the part that ID's the actual engine CU Inch and whatever
else is needed to properly ID this engine. I even inquired at a local
Chevy dealer, but they said they could not go back that far.
So you better understand what happened here. In the mid 1970's I bought
this engine from a salvage yard, and replaced the original V6 engine
which had a knock in it. The vehicle is a 64 GMC panel truck. This new
V* engine ran well. Around 1981, I had carb problems, removed the carb,
after parking the truck in a garage belonging to a relative. This carb
was put on a shelf in that garage, and I had a complete description of
the engine written on paper, on the wall. This garage developed a bad
roof leak, and since the relatives were sick, I finally re-roofed it
myself in the late 80's or early 90's. The relatives died some years
ago, and I had to assist with closing the estate. This propery was
recently sold, and I towed this vehicle home. The paper which hung on
the wall, to ID the engine was ruined from the leaking roof, and when I
moved the truck, the carb could not be found in that garage. Where it
went, I have no clue.
I'm only going on memory, that it was a 1970 Camero, but I can not
recall anything more about it. It's hard to remember back nearly 40
years. I am only remembering it as a 70 Camero eng, but that could be
wrong. I now want to restore the truck, the engine turns over, and the
rest of the truck is in intact, but will need brakes and some seals.
Otherwise it should run, once I get a carb to fit it.
I'm assuming you mean a Quadrajet when you say Q-jet.
It sure would help if I could ID that engine code.
Thanks

You most likely have a
Grab a Rochester 2GV 600cfm 2 barrel
For a Camaro, Nova, Chevelle, ElCamino or C-10/C-15 truck
Carb #7040110 without A/C, Man Trans.
Carb #7040103 WITH A/C, Man Trans.
Reasons being that the 327 wasn't made in 70.
The intake manifold bore is smaller than the 350 used (1.625")
You can make this engine MUCH better with one easy change. Grab an HEI
distributer from a 75-80's 350 BASE engine (not a high performance one
as the timing will be different, one from something like a Monte Carlo
or other grocery getter will work fine). The only changes required will
be to run a new wire from the HEI to the ignition switch. That is
because the points systems used a resistance wire to drop the voltage to
the points/coil in the run position. This was bypassed while cranking
the engine (It's what the ign. wire on the starter solenoid was for)
That change will make it start better, eliminate adjusting points and
the problems with them, and the timing will be much better.

I asked this to a local mechanic and he told me that the 327 was not
made in 1970 too. So, that eliminates that. He did show me some
numbers on the rear of the engine block, and said they will ID the
engine. However, there is no way to read them on my engine without
removing the engine, and that is not gonna happen. (GM sure was not too
smart putting them back there).

By the "intake manifold bore", are you referring to the holes where the
carb mounts, and their diameter? You said the 350 has a (1.625"). What
is the size for the 307? (Actually on the websites it's listed as a
305) ??????

Either way, if this bore tells me what the engine is, that is what I'm
looking for. I figured there would be some sort of means to determine
the size other than removing the engine to read those numbers, or
removing the heads to measure the cylinders. (All of that is too much
work).

2GV sounds real familiar, I bet that was the carb used. As soon as you
said that, it started coming back to me. Thanks for the carb numbers.
That will help.

Good idea to change the distributor. Points were always a pain in the
ass. I still have them on my farm tractors, and lawn mowers, but I
would rather have all vehicles have electronic ign.

Thanks again.

Steve W.

2014-09-18 22:20:15 UTC

Post by j***@unlisted.com
I asked this to a local mechanic and he told me that the 327 was not
made in 1970 too. So, that eliminates that. He did show me some
numbers on the rear of the engine block, and said they will ID the
engine. However, there is no way to read them on my engine without
removing the engine, and that is not gonna happen. (GM sure was not too
smart putting them back there).
By the "intake manifold bore", are you referring to the holes where the
carb mounts, and their diameter? You said the 350 has a (1.625"). What
is the size for the 307? (Actually on the websites it's listed as a
305) ??????

70 Camaro had 2 base engines, 250 I6, 307 V-8, The 305 wasn't used till
1985.

The intake bores on the 307 will be around 1.25"
Those are the "Small bore" 2C, 2GC and 2GV carbs used until 1971. The
307 was the last Chevy engine to use them.

Post by j***@unlisted.com
Either way, if this bore tells me what the engine is, that is what I'm
looking for. I figured there would be some sort of means to determine
the size other than removing the engine to read those numbers, or
removing the heads to measure the cylinders. (All of that is too much
work).

It really won't matter much. You have the base 307 with a 2 barrel. Just
get one for a manual.

Post by j***@unlisted.com
2GV sounds real familiar, I bet that was the carb used. As soon as you
said that, it started coming back to me. Thanks for the carb numbers.
That will help.
Good idea to change the distributor. Points were always a pain in the
ass. I still have them on my farm tractors, and lawn mowers, but I
would rather have all vehicles have electronic ign.
Thanks again.

You could opt for a basic 2G carb if you wanted a manual choke. They
were common on the trucks.

2G - 2 barrel with manual choke.

2GC - 2 barrel with integral choke. (Uses either an electric coil or
exhaust fed coil to close/open the choke)

2GV - 2 barrel with integral choke. (has a vacuum pull off and uses the
remote choke coil on the intake)

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.

Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.

Good luck.

--
Steve W.

j***@unlisted.com

2014-09-19 03:54:48 UTC

Post by Steve W.
You could opt for a basic 2G carb if you wanted a manual choke. They
were common on the trucks.
2G - 2 barrel with manual choke.
2GC - 2 barrel with integral choke. (Uses either an electric coil or
exhaust fed coil to close/open the choke)
2GV - 2 barrel with integral choke. (has a vacuum pull off and uses the
remote choke coil on the intake)

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.
Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.
Good luck.

Thanks Steve
I think I knwo what engine I have now. I will have to measure it when
it's daytime. But 1.25" looks about right. I'll have to find the right
carb now. I have that choke coil in the well on the intake, but I could
put on a manual one too. I'm used to those from my tractors.

Appreciate your help!

Steve W.

2014-09-19 13:33:27 UTC

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.
Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.
Good luck.

No problem.

Like I said there were very few of the 350's sold with a 2 barrel. They
even dropped it the next year because it didn't sell.

--
Steve W.

j***@unlisted.com

2014-09-19 21:15:19 UTC

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.
Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.
Good luck.

No problem.
Like I said there were very few of the 350's sold with a 2 barrel. They
even dropped it the next year because it didn't sell.

What's the difference between a 7040101 and the 7040110 which you
suggested? The 0101 came up as the carb for a 70 camero, said the
tranny did not matter. I thought it was a typo on that website, but
there is such a number.

By the way, that PDF file is excellent.

Steve W.

2014-09-20 00:05:12 UTC

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.
Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.
Good luck.

No problem.
Like I said there were very few of the 350's sold with a 2 barrel. They
even dropped it the next year because it didn't sell.

Basically the same carb.
The numbers lay out the original application the carb was used on.
The linkage type, the choke setting, the float setting, the pull off
setting, which gaskets were used, what accelerator pump is used which
base gasket, which vacuum ports were drilled out, and a bunch more.

The thing is that many of them are interchangeable, with a few minor
adjustments. The 2 barrelcarb off a 55 265 would work on a 71 307 BUT
you might need to increase the accel. pump shot, and turn up the idle
and change the linkage style to be able to use it.

In your case, as long as the carb is a small bore 2 barrel with the
correct linkage and choke it should work.

--
Steve W.

j***@unlisted.com

2014-10-13 01:48:12 UTC

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.
Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.
Good luck.

No problem.
Like I said there were very few of the 350's sold with a 2 barrel. They
even dropped it the next year because it didn't sell.

Basically the same carb.
The numbers lay out the original application the carb was used on.
The linkage type, the choke setting, the float setting, the pull off
setting, which gaskets were used, what accelerator pump is used which
base gasket, which vacuum ports were drilled out, and a bunch more.
The thing is that many of them are interchangeable, with a few minor
adjustments. The 2 barrelcarb off a 55 265 would work on a 71 307 BUT
you might need to increase the accel. pump shot, and turn up the idle
and change the linkage style to be able to use it.
In your case, as long as the carb is a small bore 2 barrel with the
correct linkage and choke it should work.

Two additional questions.

I'm still looking for a carb, they are not easy to find, and locally,
there are no junk yards. So, I'm stuck with ebay, and that makes it
tough because I can only rely on pictures.

1. Are the bolt spacings the same on all the 2 barrel carbs (to attach
to manifold). Mine is 3.25" by 2".

2. Should I stick to a 704xxxx number, or can I use other numbers. For
example there was a 702xxxx one listed (sold now). I also saw a 7044185
which when googled, appears to be for a Marine application, yet the
seller says it's for a 74 pontiac. This appears to be similar, although
it has an automatic choke on it, whereas mine has the choke coil in a
well on the intake manifold. But if that is all which is different, I
can probably modify the choke brackets.

Finally, is there some website that has the specifications listed for
all the Rochester 2BBL carbs, including things such as the jet size and
mounting bolt hole measurements.

I highly doubt I'll find the exact number needed.....

Steve W.

2014-10-13 06:21:12 UTC

Just make sure you get the small bore version (1.25") <<<

http://c777913.r13.cf2.rackcdn.com/rochester_2gc_manual.pdf
If you want a book on them. Doesn't have the correct setting info for a
70 but all the rest works.
Most of the kits include the parts to build the carb to the spec you
need, and the settings for all the versions.
Good luck.

No problem.
Like I said there were very few of the 350's sold with a 2 barrel. They
even dropped it the next year because it didn't sell.

Basically the same carb.
The numbers lay out the original application the carb was used on.
The linkage type, the choke setting, the float setting, the pull off
setting, which gaskets were used, what accelerator pump is used which
base gasket, which vacuum ports were drilled out, and a bunch more.
The thing is that many of them are interchangeable, with a few minor
adjustments. The 2 barrelcarb off a 55 265 would work on a 71 307 BUT
you might need to increase the accel. pump shot, and turn up the idle
and change the linkage style to be able to use it.
In your case, as long as the carb is a small bore 2 barrel with the
correct linkage and choke it should work.

No. The large bore units use a larger bolt pattern as well.
3 1/4" X 1 7/8" - small base
3 3/4" x 2 1/4" - large base

Post by j***@unlisted.com
2. Should I stick to a 704xxxx number, or can I use other numbers. For
example there was a 702xxxx one listed (sold now). I also saw a 7044185
which when googled, appears to be for a Marine application, yet the
seller says it's for a 74 pontiac. This appears to be similar, although
it has an automatic choke on it, whereas mine has the choke coil in a
well on the intake manifold. But if that is all which is different, I
can probably modify the choke brackets.

http://www.carburetorsandmore.com/rochester.htm
R2 would work

Post by j***@unlisted.com
Finally, is there some website that has the specifications listed for
all the Rochester 2BBL carbs, including things such as the jet size and
mounting bolt hole measurements.

Not sure, never really hunted for one. Most of the rebuild kits include
the info on the sheets.

Post by j***@unlisted.com
I highly doubt I'll find the exact number needed.....

Where are you located (State and larger city is fine) I'll also look in
the horde, might have one on the shelf that would work. Probably would
need a kit though.

--
Steve W.

Steve W.

2014-10-13 06:32:39 UTC