Discussion:
99 Lumina wont start
(too old to reply)
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-18 12:21:34 UTC
Permalink
1999 Chevy Lumina 3.1L 115k miles. With no warning, starter wont turn
over from the switch. I can start it from the starter but it only runs
for a few seconds then cuts off. I changed the ignition switch
thinking the switch wasnt sending power to the solenoid/fuel pump but
the new switch wont fire the starter either. Please help!
johnoz19
2007-02-18 16:03:31 UTC
Permalink
Your problem is in the "Vehicle anti theft" system.
1. Try your second key. Clean the "resistor pellet" on the key (with steel
wool)
2. Check fuses 7(5A), 10(15A) and 12(10A) at the inside fuse block.
3. Check fuse "ignition switch"(50A) at the "engine wiring junction block 2"
under the hood.
Post by D***@Datt.s
1999 Chevy Lumina 3.1L 115k miles. With no warning, starter wont turn
over from the switch. I can start it from the starter but it only runs
for a few seconds then cuts off. I changed the ignition switch
thinking the switch wasnt sending power to the solenoid/fuel pump but
the new switch wont fire the starter either. Please help!
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-18 18:03:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by johnoz19
Your problem is in the "Vehicle anti theft" system.
I'm inclined to agree after reading & searching on the net. Where is
is located?
Post by johnoz19
1. Try your second key. Clean the "resistor pellet" on the key (with steel
wool)
Extra key didn't work. I actually thought of that first & had my wife
bring the extra key along with my tools.(Its in a store parking lot)
Post by johnoz19
2. Check fuses 7(5A), 10(15A) and 12(10A) at the inside fuse block.
I checked the 3 15A fuses "F/INJN, PCM IGN, ELEK IGN",and "IGN SYST"
relay under the hood on passenger side. Where is the inside fuse block
located?
Post by johnoz19
3. Check fuse "ignition switch"(50A) at the "engine wiring junction block 2"
under the hood.
Fuse is good

I just got back from the car looking for the VATS. I just got this
message and I appreciate it greatly. Ill wait a bit to here back
before going to check fuses you mentioned in ">2."
Thanks again!
Post by johnoz19
Post by D***@Datt.s
1999 Chevy Lumina 3.1L 115k miles. With no warning, starter wont turn
over from the switch. I can start it from the starter but it only runs
for a few seconds then cuts off. I changed the ignition switch
thinking the switch wasnt sending power to the solenoid/fuel pump but
the new switch wont fire the starter either. Please help!
80 Knight
2007-02-18 20:39:27 UTC
Permalink
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
Your problem is in the "Vehicle anti theft" system.
I'm inclined to agree after reading & searching on the net. Where is
is located?
The VATS runs off the ignition cylinder. It's very easy to break. Is your
security light flashing?
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
1. Try your second key. Clean the "resistor pellet" on the key (with steel
wool)
Extra key didn't work. I actually thought of that first & had my wife
bring the extra key along with my tools.(Its in a store parking lot)
Post by johnoz19
2. Check fuses 7(5A), 10(15A) and 12(10A) at the inside fuse block.
I checked the 3 15A fuses "F/INJN, PCM IGN, ELEK IGN",and "IGN SYST"
relay under the hood on passenger side. Where is the inside fuse block
located?
If memory serves, there should be a fuse box inside the car on one side of
the dash, pointing towards the door's.
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
3. Check fuse "ignition switch"(50A) at the "engine wiring junction block 2"
under the hood.
Fuse is good
I just got back from the car looking for the VATS. I just got this
message and I appreciate it greatly. Ill wait a bit to here back
before going to check fuses you mentioned in ">2."
Thanks again!
Did you change the ignition switch yourself? If memory serves, the VATS
would have to be reprogrammed if you install a new ignition switch. That
could be your problem.
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
Post by D***@Datt.s
1999 Chevy Lumina 3.1L 115k miles. With no warning, starter wont turn
over from the switch. I can start it from the starter but it only runs
for a few seconds then cuts off. I changed the ignition switch
thinking the switch wasnt sending power to the solenoid/fuel pump but
the new switch wont fire the starter either. Please help!
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-18 22:21:39 UTC
Permalink
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
Your problem is in the "Vehicle anti theft" system.
I'm inclined to agree after reading & searching on the net. Where is
is located?
The VATS runs off the ignition cylinder. It's very easy to break. Is your
security light flashing?
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
1. Try your second key. Clean the "resistor pellet" on the key (with steel
wool)
Extra key didn't work. I actually thought of that first & had my wife
bring the extra key along with my tools.(Its in a store parking lot)
Post by johnoz19
2. Check fuses 7(5A), 10(15A) and 12(10A) at the inside fuse block.
I checked the 3 15A fuses "F/INJN, PCM IGN, ELEK IGN",and "IGN SYST"
relay under the hood on passenger side. Where is the inside fuse block
located?
If memory serves, there should be a fuse box inside the car on one side of
the dash, pointing towards the door's.
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
3. Check fuse "ignition switch"(50A) at the "engine wiring junction block 2"
under the hood.
Fuse is good
I just got back from the car looking for the VATS. I just got this
message and I appreciate it greatly. Ill wait a bit to here back
before going to check fuses you mentioned in ">2."
Thanks again!
Did you change the ignition switch yourself? If memory serves, the VATS
would have to be reprogrammed if you install a new ignition switch. That
could be your problem.
Thanks 80 Knight for your response...

Here is the latest:

The interior fuse box is on the passenger side, accessed with the door
open. Fuses 7, 10 & 12 are good.
I only replaced the actual ignition switch on the lower sterring
column, not the key switch.

(Without knowing anything about VATS I figured the switch wasn't
letting voltage get to the solenoid or the fuel system because if I
left the key on & jumped the solenoid to the starter motor with a
screwdriver, it runs for 3 seconds then cuts off consistently every
time)

I checked the resistance on the key(1.87K), and at the connector on
the steering column(1.87K)
I then traced the wires (purple with white stripe and white with black
stripe) to a plastic box above the glove box with PN 16215659 on it
(VATS?)

I just wish I could at least get it home but I'm afraid to try to
bypass the VATS, besides, it looks like it ain't goin anywhere.
Also, the car runs great and has no other problems that I can tell.
It cranks up with no problem with a screwdriver over and over but only
for 3 seconds-drives me crazy! (Wheres a good car thief when you need
one!)
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-18 22:23:42 UTC
Permalink
No Security Light is flashing. I looked for that.
johnoz19
2007-02-18 23:21:34 UTC
Permalink
The vats module is located above the glovebox and behind the dash. To
get to it, remove the rt. side insulator (under the dash). Then remove the
glovebox. I believe all the bolts are 7mm heads.
The Vats mod. and starter relay should be seen on a bracket up under the
dash. Two (looks like) 10 mm bolts hold the bracket to a cross beam.

Please tell me what the "Security" indicator light on the I/P does when
you turn the key on. There are three choices: Off all the time, On all the
time or Flashing. Each one means a different direction to look.

You cannot get a Vats mod. from a junk yard. Once they are installed and
fired up the first time, the resistor from the key is burned in the memory.
Only that resistor value will work from that point on. There are 15
different resistor pellet choices.

I don't know what your electrical and mechanical skill level is or how
far you want to go with this.
Post by D***@Datt.s
No Security Light is flashing. I looked for that.
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-18 23:44:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by johnoz19
The vats module is located above the glovebox and behind the dash. To
get to it, remove the rt. side insulator (under the dash). Then remove the
glovebox. I believe all the bolts are 7mm heads.
The Vats mod. and starter relay should be seen on a bracket up under the
dash. Two (looks like) 10 mm bolts hold the bracket to a cross beam.
Thanks johnoz19.

Yes to the above, I have the VATS module out already having traced the
wires from the sterring column
Post by johnoz19
Please tell me what the "Security" indicator light on the I/P does when
you turn the key on. There are three choices: Off all the time, On all the
time or Flashing. Each one means a different direction to look.
I haven't seen it come on at all!
Post by johnoz19
You cannot get a Vats mod. from a junk yard. Once they are installed and
fired up the first time, the resistor from the key is burned in the memory.
Only that resistor value will work from that point on. There are 15
different resistor pellet choices.
Yes, I was only thinking of getting a new one from a dealer and I've
found & printed information about VATS, resistance values, operation.
Mine is 1.87K (or key code 7) as stated in an earlier message.
Post by johnoz19
I don't know what your electrical and mechanical skill level is or how
far you want to go with this.
I have very good mechanical and electrical/electronics skills but I'm
not a professional car mechanic. I'll let the pros do it if i need to
but if it's at all possible, I'd like to fix the thing.
Post by johnoz19
Post by D***@Datt.s
No Security Light is flashing. I looked for that.
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-19 00:33:07 UTC
Permalink
On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 17:44:30 -0600, ***@Datt.s wrote:
I've been reading about devices that bypass the VATS module by sending
a 30 Hz signal to the ECM in order to get the fuel injectors working
but it doesn't say anything about the starter.

Does the VATS cut out the starter as well?

I can get around the starter but not the injectors.
80 Knight
2007-02-19 03:06:35 UTC
Permalink
Post by D***@Datt.s
I've been reading about devices that bypass the VATS module by sending
a 30 Hz signal to the ECM in order to get the fuel injectors working
but it doesn't say anything about the starter.
Does the VATS cut out the starter as well?
I can get around the starter but not the injectors.
My info is probably out of date, but as far as I know, the VATS system can't
be bypassed. From what I recall, if the VATS system doesn't recognize the
proper key, it won't start, no matter what. However, if your "Security"
light isn't on, then it may not be the VATS system. My Grandparents have a
'97 Lumina, and several years after having a remote starter installed, the
car began to not start. They would just turn the key and it wouldn't do
anything. I never tried activating the starter like you did, but it turned
out to be the remote starter had gone, and it was buggering up the VATS. We
removed the remote starter, and the car is fine now.
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-19 03:32:45 UTC
Permalink
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
I've been reading about devices that bypass the VATS module by sending
a 30 Hz signal to the ECM in order to get the fuel injectors working
but it doesn't say anything about the starter.
Does the VATS cut out the starter as well?
I can get around the starter but not the injectors.
My info is probably out of date, but as far as I know, the VATS system can't
be bypassed. From what I recall, if the VATS system doesn't recognize the
proper key, it won't start, no matter what. However, if your "Security"
light isn't on, then it may not be the VATS system. My Grandparents have a
'97 Lumina, and several years after having a remote starter installed, the
car began to not start. They would just turn the key and it wouldn't do
anything. I never tried activating the starter like you did, but it turned
out to be the remote starter had gone, and it was buggering up the VATS. We
removed the remote starter, and the car is fine now.
How can I tell if I have a remote starter?
johnoz19
2007-02-19 05:33:28 UTC
Permalink
The theft deterrent module performs one of the two following actions when
you attempt to start the vehicle with a wrong ignition key:

. There are 15 PASS-Key® II resistance ranges. The PASS-Key® II
resistance may be one of the 14 valid but incorrect PASS-Key® II resistance
ranges. The theft deterrent module will perform the following actions when
you attempt to start the vehicle (if the condition is present during an
engine start attempt or for 1 second any time after the engine has started):

- Turns on the SECURITY indicator

- Sends a password to the PCM through the fuel enable signal
circuit The password disables fuel delivery to the engine.

- Disables the theft deterrent relay, which disables the
starter circuit

- Disables sampling of the PASS-Key® II resistance for 3
minutes The 3 minute time period is called the shut-down period.
Disconnecting the battery will not clear the timer sequence. The timer
sequence will resume when battery power is restored. Inserting the proper
key during the vehicle shut-down period will not start the engine. The
engine will not start until the shut-down period has elapsed. After the
shut-down period, the engine will start if the correct ignition key resistor
pellet is used.

. The PASS-Key® II resistance may be correct and allow the engine
to start. Later during the same ignition cycle, the PASS-Key® II resistance
may be one of the 14 valid but incorrect resistance ranges. The theft
deterrent module will perform the following actions:

- Enters the fail-enable mode

- Turns ON the SECURITY indicator

- Sends a password to the PCM through the fuel enable signal
circuit when more attempts to start the engine occur The password allows the
fuel enable circuit to deliver fuel to the engine.

- Enables the theft deterrent relay, which also enables the
starter circuit.



A remote starter would be an after market device in 99.
I have access to all GM service manuals from 98 on. Please email me directly
if you would like to continue.
Everett
2017-09-26 21:18:01 UTC
Permalink
replying to johnoz19, Everett wrote:
How can i send a false signal to the pcm telling that everything is ok? i
already did the resistor trick with the ignition. worked for awhile. im highly
electronically capable. just don;t know what signal to send to bypass vats


--
for full context, visit http://www.motorsforum.com/gm/ecm-temp-sensor-2004-pontiac-grand-prix-78057-.htm
80 Knight
2007-02-19 16:49:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
I've been reading about devices that bypass the VATS module by sending
a 30 Hz signal to the ECM in order to get the fuel injectors working
but it doesn't say anything about the starter.
Does the VATS cut out the starter as well?
I can get around the starter but not the injectors.
My info is probably out of date, but as far as I know, the VATS system can't
be bypassed. From what I recall, if the VATS system doesn't recognize the
proper key, it won't start, no matter what. However, if your "Security"
light isn't on, then it may not be the VATS system. My Grandparents have a
'97 Lumina, and several years after having a remote starter installed, the
car began to not start. They would just turn the key and it wouldn't do
anything. I never tried activating the starter like you did, but it turned
out to be the remote starter had gone, and it was buggering up the VATS. We
removed the remote starter, and the car is fine now.
How can I tell if I have a remote starter?
They are usually under the dashboard. Have you had this car since new? If
so, you would know if you had a remote starter as you would have had to
install it yourself.
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-19 17:00:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
I've been reading about devices that bypass the VATS module by sending
a 30 Hz signal to the ECM in order to get the fuel injectors working
but it doesn't say anything about the starter.
Does the VATS cut out the starter as well?
I can get around the starter but not the injectors.
My info is probably out of date, but as far as I know, the VATS system can't
be bypassed. From what I recall, if the VATS system doesn't recognize the
proper key, it won't start, no matter what. However, if your "Security"
light isn't on, then it may not be the VATS system. My Grandparents have a
'97 Lumina, and several years after having a remote starter installed, the
car began to not start. They would just turn the key and it wouldn't do
anything. I never tried activating the starter like you did, but it turned
out to be the remote starter had gone, and it was buggering up the VATS. We
removed the remote starter, and the car is fine now.
How can I tell if I have a remote starter?
They are usually under the dashboard. Have you had this car since new? If
so, you would know if you had a remote starter as you would have had to
install it yourself.
Bought it used
Micah
2007-02-19 16:01:48 UTC
Permalink
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
Your problem is in the "Vehicle anti theft" system.
I'm inclined to agree after reading & searching on the net. Where is
is located?
The VATS runs off the ignition cylinder. It's very easy to break. Is your
security light flashing?
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
1. Try your second key. Clean the "resistor pellet" on the key (with steel
wool)
Extra key didn't work. I actually thought of that first & had my wife
bring the extra key along with my tools.(Its in a store parking lot)
Post by johnoz19
2. Check fuses 7(5A), 10(15A) and 12(10A) at the inside fuse block.
I checked the 3 15A fuses "F/INJN, PCM IGN, ELEK IGN",and "IGN SYST"
relay under the hood on passenger side. Where is the inside fuse block
located?
If memory serves, there should be a fuse box inside the car on one side of
the dash, pointing towards the door's.
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
3. Check fuse "ignition switch"(50A) at the "engine wiring junction
block
2"
under the hood.
Fuse is good
I just got back from the car looking for the VATS. I just got this
message and I appreciate it greatly. Ill wait a bit to here back
before going to check fuses you mentioned in ">2."
Thanks again!
Did you change the ignition switch yourself? If memory serves, the VATS
would have to be reprogrammed if you install a new ignition switch. That
could be your problem.
Thanks 80 Knight for your response...
The interior fuse box is on the passenger side, accessed with the door
open. Fuses 7, 10 & 12 are good.
I only replaced the actual ignition switch on the lower sterring
column, not the key switch.
(Without knowing anything about VATS I figured the switch wasn't
letting voltage get to the solenoid or the fuel system because if I
left the key on & jumped the solenoid to the starter motor with a
screwdriver, it runs for 3 seconds then cuts off consistently every
time)
I checked the resistance on the key(1.87K), and at the connector on
the steering column(1.87K)
I then traced the wires (purple with white stripe and white with black
stripe) to a plastic box above the glove box with PN 16215659 on it
(VATS?)
I just wish I could at least get it home but I'm afraid to try to
bypass the VATS, besides, it looks like it ain't goin anywhere.
Also, the car runs great and has no other problems that I can tell.
It cranks up with no problem with a screwdriver over and over but only
for 3 seconds-drives me crazy! (Wheres a good car thief when you need
one!)
Cranks & runs for 3 seconds? No sec light. Sounds like another problem other
than VATS. Does it stop like you turn the key off or stall?
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-19 17:00:14 UTC
Permalink
Post by Micah
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by 80 Knight
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
Your problem is in the "Vehicle anti theft" system.
I'm inclined to agree after reading & searching on the net. Where is
is located?
The VATS runs off the ignition cylinder. It's very easy to break. Is your
security light flashing?
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
1. Try your second key. Clean the "resistor pellet" on the key (with steel
wool)
Extra key didn't work. I actually thought of that first & had my wife
bring the extra key along with my tools.(Its in a store parking lot)
Post by johnoz19
2. Check fuses 7(5A), 10(15A) and 12(10A) at the inside fuse block.
I checked the 3 15A fuses "F/INJN, PCM IGN, ELEK IGN",and "IGN SYST"
relay under the hood on passenger side. Where is the inside fuse block
located?
If memory serves, there should be a fuse box inside the car on one side of
the dash, pointing towards the door's.
Post by D***@Datt.s
Post by johnoz19
3. Check fuse "ignition switch"(50A) at the "engine wiring junction
block
2"
under the hood.
Fuse is good
I just got back from the car looking for the VATS. I just got this
message and I appreciate it greatly. Ill wait a bit to here back
before going to check fuses you mentioned in ">2."
Thanks again!
Did you change the ignition switch yourself? If memory serves, the VATS
would have to be reprogrammed if you install a new ignition switch. That
could be your problem.
Thanks 80 Knight for your response...
The interior fuse box is on the passenger side, accessed with the door
open. Fuses 7, 10 & 12 are good.
I only replaced the actual ignition switch on the lower sterring
column, not the key switch.
(Without knowing anything about VATS I figured the switch wasn't
letting voltage get to the solenoid or the fuel system because if I
left the key on & jumped the solenoid to the starter motor with a
screwdriver, it runs for 3 seconds then cuts off consistently every
time)
I checked the resistance on the key(1.87K), and at the connector on
the steering column(1.87K)
I then traced the wires (purple with white stripe and white with black
stripe) to a plastic box above the glove box with PN 16215659 on it
(VATS?)
I just wish I could at least get it home but I'm afraid to try to
bypass the VATS, besides, it looks like it ain't goin anywhere.
Also, the car runs great and has no other problems that I can tell.
It cranks up with no problem with a screwdriver over and over but only
for 3 seconds-drives me crazy! (Wheres a good car thief when you need
one!)
Cranks & runs for 3 seconds? No sec light. Sounds like another problem other
than VATS. Does it stop like you turn the key off or stall?
Key off
If I don't turn the key on (as I did when I first jumped the
solenoid), it will crank & run about 3 times unti,l it seems to me, to
run out of fuel.(because theres no power to the fuel system). If I
turn the key on I can hear what must be the fuel being pumped, I can
crank it over and over from the starter each time cutting off after 3
seconds.

I talked with a chevy dealership mechanic who said the most common
fault he's seen is the wires/connectors in the ignition cylinder
become worn or loose & won't make contact during cranking but may make
contact with the key in. If this is the case then I should be able to
bypass the ignition switch with a resistor which is what I'm about to
try.

Thanks...
D***@Datt.s
2007-02-19 20:26:04 UTC
Permalink
Here's the latest:

As for the security light, It stays on solid with the switch in run
position. Also the Oil, Volts and Check engine lights.

After I jump it from the starter & it runs 3 sec then cuts off, the
security light & check engine lights are off but the oil & volts are
on. This is probably why I didn't notice it at first.

I checked the resistance again at the steering column connector with
it disconnected and turned the key switch to start & off several times
but it read a solid 1.87K.

With the connector disconnected, the security light flashed.

I bypassed the key/switch resistance with an equivalent resistance but
it still didn't turn over.

The engine has proper oil, I put a new battery in just to be sure and
still nothing.

Jeese!
altonboy
2007-02-18 20:35:31 UTC
Permalink
Check to see if the security light is flashing...You may have a p162
anti-theft concer
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