Discussion:
Chevy Malibu 2009 2.4 L--Engine Malfunction Light Code p0013
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Michael
2015-06-27 18:48:22 UTC
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I'm having trouble getting a straight answer about the range of costs (best case/worst case)it will take for Chevy Dealer to fix the issue now that it has been generically diagnosed with Code 0013.

They charge a big fee to diagnose it further, but then it could be a minimal cost up to (according to the Service guy) $1,500+. They say it is a Solenoid Actuator issue.

1.If I pay for the detailed diagnosis and they say it will require the expensive repair, how safe is it to continue to drive the car locally (approx. 75 miles per week) if I choose not to go forward with the big ticket repair?

2.I have driven approx. 50 miles in the 1 week since the Engine Malfunction light came on and actually the light occasionally goes off but mostly it stays on.

3. If I do spring for the big ticket fix is this usually a 2-4 hour (at most) fix after I drop the car off?

4.Do I only let Chevy dealer diagnose/fix this or are most autozone/ntb/oreilly/firestone places equally competent to do so?

Thanks for any feedback but it's hard to evaluate what to do with that light on: a simple lamp/bulb/sensor issue I assume is cheap and safe; the worst case I assume would be neither.

Thanks again for any help on this.
Paul in Houston TX
2015-06-27 21:29:25 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael
I'm having trouble getting a straight answer about the range of costs (best case/worst
case)it will take for Chevy Dealer to fix the issue now that it has been generically
diagnosed with Code 0013.
They charge a big fee to diagnose it further, but then it could be a minimal cost up to
(according to the Service guy) $1,500+. They say it is a Solenoid Actuator issue.
1.If I pay for the detailed diagnosis and they say it will require the expensive
repair, how safe is it to continue to drive the car locally (approx. 75 miles per week)
if I choose not to go forward with the big ticket repair?
That depends on what is actually causing the code to be set.
No oil pressure to the VCT cam means broken cam and new engine.
Post by Michael
2.I have driven approx. 50 miles in the 1 week since the Engine Malfunction light came
on and actually the light occasionally goes off but mostly it stays on.
3. If I do spring for the big ticket fix is this usually a 2-4 hour (at most) fix after
I drop the car off?
That depends on what is actually causing the code to be set.
A new engine will take a lot more than 2-4 hours.
Post by Michael
4.Do I only let Chevy dealer diagnose/fix this or are most
autozone/ntb/oreilly/firestone places equally competent to do so?
If it were my car I would take it to a dealer.
Post by Michael
Thanks for any feedback but it's hard to evaluate what to do with that light on: a
simple lamp/bulb/sensor issue I assume is cheap and safe; the worst case I assume would
be neither.
Worst case is gummed up engine and oil supply.
Best case can be anything from loose sensor plug to bad sensor.
Post by Michael
Thanks again for any help on this.
Steve W.
2015-06-28 09:49:12 UTC
Permalink
Post by Michael
I'm having trouble getting a straight answer about the range of costs
(best case/worst case)it will take for Chevy Dealer to fix the issue
now that it has been generically diagnosed with Code 0013.
They charge a big fee to diagnose it further, but then it could be a
minimal cost up to (according to the Service guy) $1,500+. They say
it is a Solenoid Actuator issue.
1.If I pay for the detailed diagnosis and they say it will require
the expensive repair, how safe is it to continue to drive the car
locally (approx. 75 miles per week) if I choose not to go forward
with the big ticket repair?
2.I have driven approx. 50 miles in the 1 week since the Engine
Malfunction light came on and actually the light occasionally goes
off but mostly it stays on.
3. If I do spring for the big ticket fix is this usually a 2-4 hour
(at most) fix after I drop the car off?
4.Do I only let Chevy dealer diagnose/fix this or are most
autozone/ntb/oreilly/firestone places equally competent to do so?
Thanks for any feedback but it's hard to evaluate what to do with
that light on: a simple lamp/bulb/sensor issue I assume is cheap and
safe; the worst case I assume would be neither.
Thanks again for any help on this.
P0013 can be set by

Poor oil changes causing sludge to block the solenoid from operating
Connection to the solenoid is failing or loose.
Solenoid itself is failing internally


However you can EASILY do it yourself. It requires about 4 tools and no
real effort. The actual parts are about 30 bucks each. I would opt to
replace both the intake and exhaust units as they share the same oil and
if one is having issues the other may soon.

http://www.rockauto.com./catalog/x,carcode,1442753,parttype,12910

Should take you to the parts. (you could also buy them at Advance,
Oreily type stores)

You don't need a full toolbox.
8mm socket, 10 mm socket. 6" extension and ratchet to fit, pair of
pliers (to remove a spring clamp) Screwdriver.


Remove the top plastic engine cover, Remove the ground connection from
the battery, find the solenoids on the passenger end of the engine. Use
a socket to remove the bolts, pull the solenoids out one at a time,
install the new ones (add a bit of clean oil to the o-ring), put the
connectors back on. Replace the battery ground and the engine cover.
Done.


Here's a video showing it.



And another.

--
Steve W.
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