Discussion:
Troubleshooting Alternator / Voltage Reg
(too old to reply)
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-02 17:02:09 UTC
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Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car


Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-02 17:29:42 UTC
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"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" <Snuffy-Hub-***@Livebait-McKinney.com> wrote in message news:JtednRzss98KoGzKnZ2dnUU7-***@earthlink.com...
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.

This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.

97 Aerostar

Thanks.

R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4

Voltage regulator:
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true

Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Stormin' Norman
2016-10-02 18:02:04 UTC
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On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-02 19:18:45 UTC
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On Sun, 02 Oct 2016 18:02:04 +0000, Stormin' Norman
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
The regulator is the squarish grey part fastened to the back of the
alternator with the 4 little bolts in the picture on the second page.
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-02 21:04:04 UTC
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Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
Stormin' Norman
2016-10-02 22:37:16 UTC
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On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-04 05:06:03 UTC
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Raw Message
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
Stormin' Norman
2016-10-04 13:39:24 UTC
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On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished?

At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the
vehicle.
FromTheRafters
2016-10-04 14:08:32 UTC
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Post by Stormin' Norman
On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all
good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and
is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to
check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad?
Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal
mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right
away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off
a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be
going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I
would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R
alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished?
At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the
vehicle.
Probably Repair/Replace because some people get nitpicky about the
differences between them.
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-04 16:38:59 UTC
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Raw Message
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished?
At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the
vehicle.
Remove & Replace
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-04 20:56:14 UTC
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On Tue, 04 Oct 2016 13:39:24 +0000, Stormin' Norman
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Mon, 3 Oct 2016 22:06:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big issue,
buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
What is the meaning of "R/R"? Rebuilt or Refurbished?
At least you have it fixed, hopefully it will last the life of the
vehicle.
Generally speaking R&R is remove and replace.
Terry Coombs
2016-10-04 20:07:37 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are
all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked
under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how
to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad?
Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does
internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on
already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big
issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed
that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts
place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was
$400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My
guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150
bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt .
--
Snag
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-04 21:29:19 UTC
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Raw Message
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are
all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked
under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how
to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad?
Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does
internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on
already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big
issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed
that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts
place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was
$400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My
guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150
bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95

Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520
range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.

Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30%
on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending
on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator -
total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over
$420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not
ripped off - for sure.
Terry Coombs
2016-10-04 22:12:36 UTC
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Raw Message
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have
noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to
the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular &
serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies)
. My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood
of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that
tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520
range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30%
on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending
on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator -
total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over
$420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not
ripped off - for sure.
I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay someone
else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh , and his total
was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor was a lot more than $70/hr
. Can't see that job flat rating more than 1.5 hours , if that .
Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a spark plug out of the head -
probably crossthreaded and/or partially stripped at some time in the past .
Total for parts was under a hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a
new coil pack . Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent
machining guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop
they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace rather
than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for less than 1500
bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I understand that not
everybody does .
--
Snag
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-05 00:35:43 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have
noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to
the parts place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular &
serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies)
. My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood
of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that
tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520
range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30%
on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending
on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator -
total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over
$420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not
ripped off - for sure.
I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay someone
else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh , and his total
was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor was a lot more than $70/hr
. Can't see that job flat rating more than 1.5 hours , if that .
Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a spark plug out of the head -
probably crossthreaded and/or partially stripped at some time in the past .
Total for parts was under a hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a
new coil pack . Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent
machining guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop
they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace rather
than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for less than 1500
bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I understand that not
everybody does .
--
Snag
Just did a plug on a friend's Rotax 912 in his SeaRey amphibian plane.
Less than an hour including modifying the installation tool. Had to
buy the special 12mm kit - save-a-thread - I think the kit was just
over 100 dollars and hasabout half a dozen helicoils.
Terry Coombs
2016-10-06 00:43:35 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it
fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the
battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too.
The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably
would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had
no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R
alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner
assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies)
. My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood
of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that
tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the
$520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about
30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100
depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the
alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and
you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK.
You were not ripped off - for sure.
I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay
someone else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh
, and his total was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor
was a lot more than $70/hr . Can't see that job flat rating more
than 1.5 hours , if that . Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a
spark plug out of the head - probably crossthreaded and/or partially
stripped at some time in the past . Total for parts was under a
hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a new coil pack .
Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent machining
guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop
they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace
rather than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for
less than 1500 bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I
understand that not everybody does . --
Snag
Just did a plug on a friend's Rotax 912 in his SeaRey amphibian plane.
Less than an hour including modifying the installation tool. Had to
buy the special 12mm kit - save-a-thread - I think the kit was just
over 100 dollars and hasabout half a dozen helicoils.
Is that Rotax an OHV or L-head ? I had a bunch of stuff in the way , and
this V6 is one of the DOHC 4 valve/cylinder models . Spark plug is top dead
center in the combustion chamber . About 6 inches down in a hole ...
--
Snag
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-06 03:20:46 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it
fixed right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the
battery and dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too.
The tensioner pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably
would not have noticed that, and even if I did, I would have had
no way to get to the parts place. Total damage for R/R
alternator/regular & serpentine belt was $400. Plus tensioner
assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies)
. My guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood
of 125-150 bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that
tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the
$520 range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about
30% on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100
depending on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the
alternator - total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and
you are over $420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK.
You were not ripped off - for sure.
I wasn't trying to imply he was ripped off ... I just hate to pay
someone else that kind of money to do something I can do myself . Oh
, and his total was $530 , so either the parts were more or labor
was a lot more than $70/hr . Can't see that job flat rating more
than 1.5 hours , if that . Recently our Toyota 4Runner (V6) blew a
spark plug out of the head - probably crossthreaded and/or partially
stripped at some time in the past . Total for parts was under a
hundred bucks including the reamer/tap kit and a new coil pack .
Labor was about 2.5 hours and half that time was spent machining
guide bushings and other tooling . Had that problem gone to a shop
they would have at least pulled the head , likely wanted to replace
rather than repair , and I'm certain I wouldn't have gotten out for
less than 1500 bucks . It helps that I have a machine shop , and I
understand that not everybody does . --
Snag
Just did a plug on a friend's Rotax 912 in his SeaRey amphibian plane.
Less than an hour including modifying the installation tool. Had to
buy the special 12mm kit - save-a-thread - I think the kit was just
over 100 dollars and hasabout half a dozen helicoils.
Is that Rotax an OHV or L-head ? I had a bunch of stuff in the way , and
this V6 is one of the DOHC 4 valve/cylinder models . Spark plug is top dead
center in the combustion chamber . About 6 inches down in a hole ...
OHV 4 cyl opposed. Those dohc crossflow heads with the plugs down
insude a well are a BITCH to do thread repairs on!
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-06 18:42:56 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are
all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked
under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how
to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad?
Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does
internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on
already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big
issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed
that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts
place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was
$400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My
guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150
bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520
range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30%
on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending
on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator -
total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over
$420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not
ripped off - for sure.
I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going.
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-06 22:13:10 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
On Thu, 6 Oct 2016 11:42:56 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are
all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked
under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how
to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad?
Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does
internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on
already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big
issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed
that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts
place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was
$400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My
guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150
bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520
range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30%
on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending
on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator -
total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over
$420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not
ripped off - for sure.
I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going.
And you were farther ahead paying someone else to do the job than
you would have been putting off your own work to do it yourself. That
occaisionally happens even to me.
Steve W.
2016-10-07 08:07:02 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
On Thu, 6 Oct 2016 11:42:56 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
Post by Terry Coombs
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 14:04:04 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Post by Stormin' Norman
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney"
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are
all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked
under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how
to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad?
Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does
internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on
already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Have you checked out this article?
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/4.0L/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
Thanks. Did a similar test and nothing coming from the alternator.
The rectifier diodes could be shot in the alternator, if you are
mechanically adept, you could disassemble the alternator, test and
replace the diodes, if you can find them. If money isn't a big
issue, buy a rebuilt or new alternator.
I troubleshot it to the alternator. This time I had to get it fixed
right away to use in a paying job, so I charged up the battery and
dropped it off a the local garage. Good thing, too. The tensioner
pulley turned out to be going bad. I probably would not have noticed
that, and even if I did, I would have had no way to get to the parts
place. Total damage for R/R alternator/regular & serpentine belt was
$400. Plus tensioner assy, $130.
This is why I do all my own work (exception is automatic trannies) . My
guess is that parts cost to the garage was in the neighborhood of 125-150
bucks , the rest was labor and a nice markup on that tensioner and alt .
Here in Ontario Canada dealer price on the tensioner for a 4 liter
is$73.87 and list is $111.28 from NAPA That was a month or so ago
when I replaced mine. The 3 liter will be very close.
In the USA at carpartsdiscount.com the 4 liter tensioner is a whole
$29.35 US for Gates and $26.35 for Dorman., For the 3 liter it is
$35.55 for a Dorman and $40.75 for a Gates.
Your garage WILL have paid more than that.
NapaOnline has the 4 liter one listed at $49.95
Reman alternators at NapaOnline are in the $220 range, New in the $520
range. The alternator comes with the regulator installed.
Not sure what the situation is now, but garages used to make about 30%
on parts, and labour ranges from the low $70s to over $100 depending
on location.. So, say $49 for the tensioner, $220 for the alternator -
total $270-ish times 1.3+ $351 plus an hour at $70 and you are over
$420 - so all in all, at $400 for the job you did OK. You were not
ripped off - for sure.
I still would have liked to have had time to do this job, the choice this time was waiting until I had time to fix a dead car or paying someone and keeping my work going.
And you were farther ahead paying someone else to do the job than
you would have been putting off your own work to do it yourself. That
occaisionally happens even to me.
I know of more than one working mechanic who has paid someone else to
repair their vehicle. I've done it, mainly because I just didn't want to
work on my own vehicle after spinning wrenches all day.
That and having the "spare time" to do the work never seemed to appear.
--
Steve W.
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-02 19:14:46 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:29:42 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
Alternator says 'internal' regulator. Stupid question - does internal mean the one that is sold separately is bolted on already?
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/alternator/duralast-alternator/191085_23521_4442/?checkfit=true
Which engine do you have? The regulator is a lot more work to remove
from the alternator on the vehicle than removing the alternator. Can't
remember how it is on a 4 liter - but it is certainly no easier than
on the 3.0

The "internal" regulator is bolted to the alternator. It IS available
separatgely for repair - and SOME replacement alternators come without
the regulator. Standard practice around here is to supply the
alternator complete with regulator installed and tested.
c***@snyder.on.ca
2016-10-02 19:11:32 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:02:09 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
I have no idea what kind of '97 Aerostgar you have that would have an
external or sepparate regulator - certainly not one built by Ford -
perhaps a twin engined Piper?? ALL Ford aerostars of that vintage use
a regulator that is attached to and part of the alternator. Yes, you
can change it without dissassembling the alternator - and if it is a 3
liter you CAN change it without removing the alternator but it takes
about half the time to remove the alternator than it does to finesse
the regulator off and back on in place.. The chances of the regulator
fixing it are significantly less than 50/50, in my experience.. Remove
the alternator and replacxe it, complete with new regulator. Just do
the job ONCE for a change.
Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
2016-10-02 21:06:16 UTC
Permalink
Raw Message
Post by c***@snyder.on.ca
On Sun, 2 Oct 2016 10:02:09 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Post by Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney
Alternator is not charging battery. Connections and cables are all good, no voltage drops. Battery holds a charge, checked under load and is fine.
This one has separate alternator and regulator. Anyone know how to check regulator & alternator separately to see which is bad? Alternator is a pain to remove.
97 Aerostar
Thanks.
R/R Video for this car
http://youtu.be/xb05NQJMxx4
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/voltage-regulator/ford/aerostar?vehicleSet=true
I have no idea what kind of '97 Aerostgar you have that would have an
external or sepparate regulator - certainly not one built by Ford -
perhaps a twin engined Piper?? ALL Ford aerostars of that vintage use
a regulator that is attached to and part of the alternator. Yes, you
can change it without dissassembling the alternator - and if it is a 3
liter you CAN change it without removing the alternator but it takes
about half the time to remove the alternator than it does to finesse
the regulator off and back on in place.. The chances of the regulator
fixing it are significantly less than 50/50, in my experience.. Remove
the alternator and replacxe it, complete with new regulator. Just do
the job ONCE for a change.
3.0
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